New World Class Trek in Chile’s Patagonia National Park
by Alan Dixon and Alison Simon
Chile’s new Patagonia National Park may well become the “Yellowstone of South America” due to its rich diversity. The new Park has it all — the high glaciated peaks of the Southern Andes, wide valleys with ice cold glacial rivers, forests of southern beech hanging with moss, and startlingly green glacial lakes. Fairly unique to the park is its expansive grasslands supporting a vast array of wildlife. It’s easy to see herds of guanacos, condors, flamingos, armadillos and more. And while a puma sighting is extremely rare in the more famous Torres del Paine, we had a puma saunter through our camp one night!
The new Park is a trekker’s paradise. It rivals the trekking of more well known areas of Patagonia — like Chile’s Torres del Paine Trek, or Argentina’s Fitz Roy Trek in Los Glaciares National Park. The new Patagonia National Park is big! It’s about the same size as the the vast Yosemite National Park in the US and about 1.5x the size of Torres del Paine National Park. But there are far less people. So, it’s not surprising we saw only a few other hikers on our trek from end to end though the new park. As such, Patagonia National Park is the perfect place to trek in glorious Patagonia and skip the crowds.
You make Adventure Alan & Co possible. When purchasing through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission at no additional cost to you. Here’s why you can trust us.
The Only Guide to the New Patagonia National Park Trek
As far as we know, this is the only guide to the new Patagonia National Park Trek, online or in print. This guide contains all the information you need to successfully complete this new world class trek in Patagonia — the only complete map set of the trek in geospatial PDF, GPS files, hiking distances & times; detailed, day-by-day route descriptions, camping locations, elevation profiles and more.
What is Chile’s new Patagonia National Park?
Still in progress, Chile’s new Patagonia National Park will combine three separate areas into a single park. Two existing conservation areas, 1) Jeinimeni National Reserve in the North and 2) Tamango National Reserve in the South along with new land between the two, the Chacabuco Valley, that was recently donated by Conservacion Patagonica. When fully integrated, these three areas will become Chile’s new Patagonia National Park a vast, contiguous and thriving ecosystem.
Map of Chile’s new 650,000 acre Patagonia National Park. In yellow is what all the fuss is about, the Chacabuco Valley (Parque Patagonia). Formerly a privately owned sheep ranching area that divided the Jeinimeni National Reserve (green on top) to the north from the Tamango National Reserve to the south (green on bottom left). It was purchased by Conservacion Patagonica, the organization founded by Kristine and the late Doug Tompkins of The North Face. The new land was formally given to Chile in January of 2018. When fully integrated, this new land is the key to forming a vast, contiguous and thriving ecosystem that some are calling the “Yellowstone of South America” Integration of the park areas may come as soon as 2019, but you can easily trek through all three areas right now.
Here’s a short video of the dedication of the park to Chile in January 2018.
Top Things You Need to Know about the Patagonia National Park Trek
Location – Aysén Region of Patagonia in Chile. Nearest city to the south is Cochrane. Nearest city to the north is Chile Chico.
Safety – This region of Chile is totally stable and safe. In fact, most people went out of their way to be super helpful like offering us a lift to our room from the ferry so we didn’t have to walk it late at night. There’s lots tourists safely hitchhiking here.
Reference – This is the only guide online or in-print for the new Patagonia National Park Trek. Parque Patagonia.org has a few hiking maps and a brochure here but they do not cover the entire area of the new Patagonia National Park.
Navigation and Maps – As far as we know we have the only complete map with all the trails for this trek. In addition we have provided a .GPX file for the Trek.
Season – October 1 through April 20 (summer in Patagonia). Park is essentially closed April to September.
Duration – 5 to 6 easy to moderate days (fitter/faster hikers could do this in 4 days)
Distance – 60 miles (97 km) including one 16.4 mile (43 km) gravel road section. Total ascent 8,700 ft. Total decent 10,800 ft.
Level of Difficulty – Moderate to hard depending on river levels and wading expertise.
Route Finding – Moderate to easy. A few “trails” are not that well marked. You need to cross rivers at the right location. The start of one trail was not signed when we trekked.
Challenges – Wading cold glacial rivers, not so well marked sections of trail and the usual Patagonia weather and winds.
Gear, Food, Water and Camping
Gear – Patagonian weather can be harsh with frequent rain (or snow) and it’s legendary howling winds. This is a List of the Gear that worked has well for us over the years in both Chilean and Argentine Patagonia.
Camping – There is both backcountry/wild camping (on the trail and no facilties) and car-accessable campgrounds that have toilets, cooking shelters, tables and sometimes showers.
Water and Food – Water is plentiful along the trail and in backcountry camps but there is no treated water. There is no food or other services available along this route. The only exception is a fancy restaurant at the Lodge in the Park Headquarters. There is also a gift shop. But there is no food or groceries available anywhere in the park. The nearest town is Cochrane about 30 minutes by car. So you will want to purchase food in either Coyhaique, Chile Chico, or Cochrane. See “Food, Gear, & Fuel” section.
The Details – Patagonia National Park Trek Guide
Navigation and Maps
As far as we know we have the only complete map with all the trails for this trek! In addition we have provided a .GPX file for the Trek. Otherwise, decent trekking maps of the new Patagonia National Park are nearly non-existent and hard to come by. We couldn’t even get one at the Park’s Headquarters. Maps for Good had a nice park map that is now out of print. Hopefully they are updating the map and will re-publish it soon.
Note: Our map and .gpx files above are provided free for your personal use. We are happy for you to use them! But please respect our work and copyright and don’t republish or distribute them to others. Thanks!
Keeping Park Names Straight
Note: Until the new Patagonia National Park is fully integrated (possibly sometime in 2019, but don’t hold your breath) this Guide will refer to the older designations of the three separate areas. As of our trekking in 2018, the following areas were still signed and operating separately. Listed from North to South they are:
|
Details of Backcountry/wild-camping and Campgrounds
Backcountry camping: There is only one backcountry hut on the trek (in Reserva Jeinimeni). It is also the only backcountry campsite with an outhouse. In Parque Pataonia proper, wild camping is only allowed in upper Valle Aviles above the suspension bridge (otherwise wild camping is not allowed in Parque Patagonia). In Reserva Jeinimeni you are restricted to designated campsites. In Reserva Tamango wild camping is allowed but try to use existing camps. Campgrounds: Parque Patagonia has three car accessible, non-backcountry campgrounds with toilets, shelters and picnic tables. In Park Lodging: There are high end/expensive rooms at the Lodge in the Park Headquarters.
A Companion Trek to the New Patagonia National Park Trek
Also see our companion trek in the same region of Chile, the Cerro Castillo Trek, another best trek in Patagonia you’ve never heard of. Combined with the New Patagonia National Park Trek you have almost two weeks of fantatstic trekking in a much less traveled but exciting region of Patagonia.
Day by Day Trekking Guide to Patagonia National Park
Getting There
From the Santiago Airport fly into into Balmaceda, (BBA). There are two airlines that go to BBA, LATAM and Sky Airlines. Sky Airlines is cheaper, but has fewer flights than LATAM. For both, it pays to book earlier than later. When you arrive to Balmaceda airport, as of this writing, you have three choices for getting to Coyhaique—the three shuttles are lined up at the baggage claim and, as far as we can tell, all do the same thing. We went with T&T as they dropped us at our hotel (the others may do the same, just ask).
Food, Gear, and Fuel
Coyhaique is the biggest city in Aysen. There are many local outfitters as well as a Patagonia and North Face store downtown for all your gear needs. The one downside of Coyhaique is the supermarket which is rather large. Unfortunately, there is just one for a population of 50,000+ which means lines in the grocery store can take 20-30 minutes. There is talk of building a second store, let’s hope they do. Alcohol fuel is also available at Cruz Verde Pharmacias, if you bring an alcohol stove like we did. Lodging in Coyhaique is diverse. We had no problem finding a place to stay—although during high season, best to book ahead. Chile Chico had at least two supermarkets that appeared to be moderately stocked and Cochrane had a small grocery story (the smallest of the three cities) on the square. You could probably get food for the trek if you had no other choices (i.e. other towns).
Getting to Chile Chico (nearest large city to trek)
The start of the trek is most easily accessed via the town of Chile Chico. Unfortunately, the Carretera Austral does not go to Chile Chico. Therefore, your two options for getting to Chile Chico are taking a minibus south to Puerto Ibanez (1.5 hrs) and crossing Lake General Carrera via the ferry (2 hours) or driving all the way around the lake and back track on highway 265 (much longer). If you hitch to the ferry, you may need to find two kind souls—one to take you east on the Carretera Austral to the intersection with X-65, and another to take you down the X-65 to Puerto Ibanez.
There is only one ferry a day in each direction except Tuesday-no ferry south to Chile Chico and Wednesday, two ferries south to Chile Chico. Check the latest schedules on their website. The minibus in Coyhaique leaves in time to get to the boat at Puerto Ibanez. Cost of boat is 2,200 CLP, buy your ticket at the office in front of the boat launch.
The boat arrives in Chile Chico at 22:00 so you may want to have your lodging set up ahead of time. Chile Chico has plenty of cabanas (Air B&B) for rent as well as other options. They also have at least two well-stocked supermarkets for your trek. If you take some layover time in Chile Chico, you can fly fish or go visit the Marble Caves. It’s a nice town to layover in.
OPTIONAL TRANSPORTATION OPTIONS RECEIVED FROM HIKERS: There is a direct bus to Cochrane from Chile Chico, 4 days a week. Return trip 3 days a week 6.5 hours on a tougher road but a direct route… hitch hiking this route can be hit and miss!!! Not too much traffic
OR… ferry to Puerto Ibanez across the Lago Carrerra where you hop on to immediate connecting bus to Balmaceda Airport followed by Coyhaique.
ALTERNATIVE FROM ARGENTINA: Easy to access Chile Chico from Los Antiguos on Routa 40 in Argentina. They are only 5km apart. Transfer minibuses start at 08.30 from the bus terminal in Los Antiguos for 2,500 pesos. Several a day. Or walk or hitch hike to Chile Chico.
STAYING IN CHILE CHICO: We have received questions from hikers about staying in Chile Chico. One hiker sent the following information which we are passing along.
At entrance into town at the big arch are 2 campsites. They both charge 5,000pesos. The Hosteria has lots of NEW showers and loos.. Sweet tree surrounded camping area with tables. Camping other side of road is a bit more wind and dust prone and more scruffy but lots of tables. Be careful of the Kon Aiken camping, only one loo/shower in one room for both men and women, gets crowded.
Some hostels/ campsites provide storage of extra gear. A lot are starting to charge per day now. Plenty of opportunities to change money at local shops in Chile Chico.
Getting to Trail Head – Trek Start (Reserva Jeinimeni)
UPDATE, 2020: The 2 main agencies have paired up to provide cheaper transport into Lago Jeinimeni. Costs 20,000 pesos now. As long as you have at least 3 passengers.
Getting from Chile Chico to the trailhead of Reserva Jeinimeni (the start of the trek) is not cheap. We paid $150 USD for the two of us (using Patagonia Xpress). There are minimal day hikers and car campers who go to Reserva Jeinimeni, so hitchhiking or bumming a ride from someone in town might be challenging.
Day 1: Reserva Nacional Jeinimeni
Mileage: 9.6 mi (15.6km)
Ascent/Descent: 1400 ft (425m) ↑ 1300 ft (400m) ↓
Hiking time: 4 hr 30 min
As you enter the park, have your driver go to the ranger station (about 1 hour, 20 min drive on bad roads—need high clearance vehicle). Purchase your permit from the ranger. Cost is $3,000 CLP per person to enter and another $10,000 CLP to camp (you’ll only camp one nite in this park so should only pay $10,000). We found the ranger to be extremely helpful with both directions and river crossings. The most challenging part of the two days in Jeinimeni will be the river crossings. The ranger gave us explicit information on water levels as well as exactly where to cross. Take careful notes as this information is valuable.
When finished at the ranger station, you can either walk or have your driver bring you to the trailhead (the bridge). The trailhead is at the entrance to a campground. During high season, you may have a better chance catching a ride from someone staying at his campground than off season which will save you the $150 USD.
Cross the bridge to begin the hike. The first 7.5 miles of this hike is flat. Your first stream crossing is at mile 3.8 (about 1 hr 20 min). This is also where you will drop most of the day hikers who are not keen to wade the streams. Walking the trail you will continue to wade streams, and soon you will start walking a stream bed that is not well marked—stay in the stream bed.
Note: the most critical crossing of the day is of Rio Jeinimeni about 0.5 miles past Laguna Esmeralda. The river is deep and fast and you need to cross in the right/safest place. This is clearly marked as long as you pay close attention to the signs which are admittedly a bit confusing. Also make sure you pay close attention to the park ranger as he describes where to cross. [And as a rule of thumb don’t cross anything deeper than mid-thigh.]
At mile 6.1 (approximately 2 hr 10 min after your start), you will see the first sign to Lago Verde. Continue on until mile 7.5 where you will leave the river bed on the left (well-marked but you need keep your eyes peeled and not walk past it!). You will walk the bank of the river for a bit and then turn left to go up and over a pass. It is a steep climb, 200 meters in 0.5 miles. Although steep, the trail is well maintained. As you crest the pass, Lago Verde will be on the other side (photo stop!). Coming down the pass towards Lago Verde is equally steep. As you circumnavigate Lago Verde, on the far end an avalanche has blown down trees and you will need to pick your way through. Continue on the trail until you get to the cabin. The cabin sits in Valle Hermoso and is basic with a few tables, a wood burning stove, and a tin roof. There is an outhouse and plenty of campsites around the cabin. The views of Valle Hermoso (Beautiful Valley) at sunset and sunrise are spectacular!
Day 2: From Valle Hermoso to Valle Aviles/Parque Patagonia
Mileage: 9.5 miles (15.5km)
Ascent/Descent: 900 ft (275m)↑, 1200 ft (370m) ↓
Hiking time: 5 hr 30 min
Valle Hermoso sits in a glacier-fed valley and to exit, you will walk the rocky river bed and wade a number of glacier-fed streams. Some crossings are marked and some are not. The exit from the Valle Hermoso (to Valle Aviles) is in a southern beech, Lenga forest on your left after walking 2.6 miles (4.1km), about one hour. Be on keen lookout for a marker on the far bank as the ranger said a number of people miss it each season. Once you enter the forest, continue onward. Traversing through the forest at mile 5.5 (8.8km), wading more streams, you will come to the most northern boundary of Parque Patagonia (well-marked). There is a well-used campsite right inside the border if needed. Parque Patagonia is extremely well-signed including kilometers walked. In the Valle Aviles, Parque Patagonia has destroyed all the shepherd hut/cabins so there are no camping facilities. Groups have constructed protected windbreaks for pitching tents at several locations and water is plentiful. Camping needs to occur north of the 8 km trail marker, i.e. above the suspension bridge.
Once you cross into Parque Patagonia, starting at mile marker 25km, you will be following the Aviles river down the Valle Aviles. Views are spectacular all around you, yet this remote area of Parque Patagonia is fairly deserted. The trek is well marked crossing braids of the rio Aviles, but not difficult. The first crossing of the Rio Aviles is in 8.9 miles (14.3km). Around the 17km marker, there are a few good tent sites near stream crossings.
Note: In Parque Pataonia proper, wild camping in the backcountry is only allowed in upper Valle Aviles above the suspension bridge (otherwise wild/backcountry camping is not allowed in Parque Patagonia). On the floor of Valle Chacabuco, Parque Patagonia has two car accessible, non-backcountry campgrounds with toilets, shelters and picnic tables. These are Camping Casa Piedra (Stone House) at the start of the Valle Aviles trail, and Camping Westwinds near the Park Headquarters and the start of the Lagos Altas Trail.
Day 3: Upper Valle Aviles to Casa Piedra (Stone House)
Mileage: 10 miles (16 km)
Ascent/Descent: 1211 ft (365m) ↑, 2500 ft (760m) ↓
Hiking time: 4 hours
Hiking south into the more populated area of Parque Patagonia, you will come to a trail junction between 8 and 9 km. Either one will take you down to the Stone House. The preferred trail is to the left. It is the hillier and, we were told, more scenic, although trails both ways looked nice. If you go left, you will quickly cross the one long and high suspension bridge that is likely worth visiting whichever trail you take! After a few rolling hills where you need to head the side canyons (a bit of a pain), you will walk down the nose of the final ridge into the Valle Chacabuco (the view of the valley from here is stunning!). After you descend to the valley floor, it’s approximately 2 km to the Stone House. The Stone House has full camping amenities (no food) including water, inside tables, showers, and restrooms. Campsites surround the Stone House and have their own shelter areas with picnic tables. You pay for staying at the campsite ($8,000 CLP/person). There is a campground keeper who can answer questions.
Optional Day Hiking : Getting to Westwinds Camping (an extra hiking day or hitchhike)
Mileage: 16.4 miles (26 km)
Ascent/Descent: 1460 ft (450m) ↑, 1580 ft (480m) ↓
Hiking time: 6 hours (it’s fast road walking!)
Note: The trail system in Parque Pataonia is a work very much in progress. As such, there is no trail connecting the end of the Valle Aviles trail to the Start of the Lagunas Altas Trail (Camping Westwinds). We assume that this will eventually happen, but for now Carretera X-83 is the main road through the Park and your only option. You can either walk or hitchhike this gravel road.
We are guessing that many people will choose to hitchhike. But Jay who followed our route in 2019 reports the following: “The road from Casa Piedra/Stone House was a beautiful walk. I see a lot folk folks asking you if there is way to hick hike. Just my 2 cents. Walk it. Its an easy walk and its more stunning and quiet than most tails I have been on.”
From the Stone House, it is approximately 16 miles to Camping Westwinds, the Park Visitor’s center, Lodge and restaurant. Your options are to hitch hike or walk the gravel road, Carretera X-83. The road is not well traveled by car traffic. Carretera X-83 leads to the Argentinian border to the left, and to the right it passes the main Parque Patagonia office complex eventually intersecting with the Carreterra Austral. If you get to the Stone House at a reasonable hour, there is a chance day hikers will be coming and going and they may be your best option to catch a ride to the main complex.
The other full services campground is at the main Parque Patagonia complex: Camping Westwinds has full amenities (toilets, solar showers, picnic tables, and pavilions). It is, however, approximately 2.5 km away from the main complex (i.e. dining facilities, Lodge and Visitor’s Center) so unless you have a car, or unless you want to walk back and forth, plan to bring all your meals with you for this leg of the journey. At the main dining building, you pay for staying at the campground ($8,000 CLP/person). Alternatively, you can pay the ranger in the morning (he comes around first thing in the AM).
Two cautions for Camping Westwinds: first, habituated mice are a real problem. While we hung our food (keeping it away from the mice), the mice then went after our trekking poles. Second, per a park advisory, pumas are in the area. To prove that point, a puma walked through the our campsite at dusk which was a bit unnerving or super cool depending on your perspective!
Day 4: Westwinds Camping in Parque Patagonia to Lago Tamangito in Reserva Nacional Tamango
Mileage: 7.7 miles (12.5km)
Ascent/Descent: 3200 ft (975m) ↑, 1250 ft (380m) ↓
Hiking time: 4 hours
This is your big climbing day. It’s almost 3,000 feet of elevation gain from Camping Westwinds to the high point. Paso Los Condores.
Head up the Las Altas Trail (there is an entrance in the Westwinds campground). Ascend for 3 km on an old road with a gentle climb. At that point, it becomes much steeper. Around mile 4.2 and 2,850 ft (2 hr 20 minutes) just as you crest the peak, and before you arrive at the first lake, take a faint trail heading off to the right (almost due south). It is neither marked nor clearly visible so be alert. It is a gentle climb over the next pass and quickly you will pick up orange poles or surveyors tape tied to rocks as trail markers. It is a good trail in most places. The pass is at 3,130 ft, about 3 hours and 5.3 miles from camp. At the summit, there are two small lakes. Around 6 miles, you enter a lenga rainforest and at 7 miles, you come upon a junction. Take the official trail to right, SSW along the lake. Established campsites were plentiful as was water.
Note: No camping is allowed in Las Altas as it is still in Parque Patagonia. We suggest that you not camp until you have gone over Paso Los Condores and dropped well into Reserva Tamango.
Day 5: Lago Tomangito to Trip End in Cochrane
Mileage: 6.7mi (10.8km)
Ascent/Descent: 570ft (175km) ↑, 3000ft (915m) ↓
Hiking time: 3 hrs, 30 min
There is clear signage from Tamango down to Cochrane. On the far side of the lake, take the signs pointing to “Sendera Las Lengas” which is the exit to Cochrane. As you wind around several small lakes, the path remains flat for at least a mile. At that point, you start to drop steeply. Although the trail is not marked, it is easy to follow and you will wind downhill out of the forest. At the bottom of the trail, you will come upon a ranger station complex (a few buildings) that were under construction/renovation when we went past. On the other side of the buildings you will see the road heading WSW into town. Take this road and within a half mile you will encounter the first gate to go through. Continue on until you see a big wooden gate on your left. It looks like private property but is actually the gate into town (it’s waypointed on the map). The road drops steeply as you pass through the gate. When you get to your first T intersection, turn right and follow the road around until you see Cochrane on your left.
Note: This is confirmed, at the old park buildings you will need to take #1 Las Aguilas Trail South back to a non-private road that goes to Cochrane. One recent hiker reports that the gate is definitely marked no trespassing and shut. And further notes that this private land is patrolled.
We’ve had a report that the gate used to access the road to town (waypointed with name “gate”) is locked with clear do not enter signs. Anyway, if the gate continues to truly be a no-go, the work around is to continue from #6 Las Lengas Trail and when you get to the park buildings take #1 Las Aguilas Trail South back to a non-private road that goes to Cochrane. The distance should not be much longer. [see map below for more detail.]
Alternate Route Day 5 – Sendero Los Huemuls
Day 5 is fairly short. If you want a chance to glimpse the rarely-seen huemuls (an endangered deer), take the longer and more scenic route along the shore of the large Laguna Elefantita. To do this, continue on Sendero 7, Los Valles 4.6 km, then on to Sendero 8, Los Pumas 4.2 km, and finally Sendero 5, Los Huemules 6.8 km. This trail joins the standard Day 5 at the “Park Buildings.” Continue along dirt roads to Cochrane on the Day 5 route.
Ending Your Trek
Cochrane has plenty of places to stay although some lodgings are closed in the off season. The bus terminal in Cochrane is new and lovely. You can book your ticket back to Coyhaique, a trip of 7-8 hours via the Carretera Austral, at the bus station. Several buses go to Coyhaique daily all leaving in the morning, 7 days a week. The last bus of the day to Coyhaique leaves at 9am, with Don Carlos. On Sunday, last bus is 7:00am. Buy your ticket the day before if possible. The buses fill up.
Gear Highlights for the Patagonia National Park Trek
Our Gear for Patagonia Trekking (and most trips worldwide)
A light pack is huge contributor to a fun trip! Selecting the right gear will make your trip safe and most important more enjoyable.
Again, we’ve logged a lot of time in Patagonia over the past 14 years . As such, we think we’ve got our gear well tuned for Patagonia. Most of the gear on this list is contained in our 9 Pound Full Comfort Ultralight Backpacking Gear List, This is the gear checklist list we use to pack for all our trips worldwide. This gear is very light but will work everywhere from Patagonia to Alaska to New Zealand and the Southwest Deserts of the US.
Disclaimer
This post contains affilate links. If you make a purchase after clicking on the these links, a small portion of the sale helps support this site at no additional cost to you. I do not receive compensation from the companies whose products are listed. For product reviews: unless otherwise noted, products are purchased with my own funds. I am never under an obligation to write a review about any product. Finally, this post expresses my own independent opinion.
Related Posts
Best Hiking Shorts 2024 Men’s & Women’s
Clothing, Apparel Guides, shorts, BottomsBest Small 2 Person Tent for Backpacking & Camping 2024
Tents, Tarps & Shelters, Buyer's Guides, Gear Guides, Tents & PacksTrackbacks & Pingbacks
Leave a Reply
Want to join the discussion?Feel free to contribute!
Leave a Reply Cancel reply
This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.
© Jaeger Shaw, Sustain Succeed LLC, and AdventureAlan.com, 2000-2023 | All Rights Reserved
Unauthorized use and/or duplication of this material without express and written permission from this site’s owner is strictly prohibited. Brief excerpts and links may be used freely without express and written permission, provided that full and clear credit is given to AdventureAlan.com with appropriate and specific direction linking to the original content.
You make Adventure Alan & Co possible. When purchasing through links on our site, we may earn an affiliate commission at no additional cost to you.
Affiliate Disclosure | Privacy Policy | Terms and Conditions | Contact Us
Thanks for this post, it was an incredibly helpful guide! My husband and I hiked the trail first week of December and it was truly spectacular! Of course we had the typical Patagonian weather including 24h of hail but it was still one of the best hikes we have ever done.
I’ve uploaded the GPX data onto alltrails including the right route down to Cochrane on the last day, in case helpful for others. https://www.alltrails.com/en-gb/trail/chile/aysen/jeininemi-to-cochrane-trek-patagonia-national-park-3?u=m&sh=malyfo
All waypoints are still accurate including on day 4 there is now a very clear sign for the condores trail after walking up the Los Atlas trail, so you can’t miss it. On the Conaf website it mentioned some trail closures but the range didnt say anything about it when we showed him our route and the trail is safe enough. There was quite a lot of snow on the pass on day 4 but nothing that felt dangerous. Park entrance price seems to have gone up (now 12,000CPS pp) and we managed to organise a driver to the Jeinimeni park entrance for 35,000CPS through our hostel in Chile Chico (Posada de Luna).
Thanks for sharing and glad you had a great trip! We’ll see about updating the GPX to account for the Cochrane reroute. 24 hours of hail… holy smokes. Classic Patagonia!
Hi, I can’t seem to find the GPX and trail that you referred to on alltrails, can you fix the link? or upload the GPX file. We are probably heading there this season and would love to have an updated recording :)
Dear Alan,
We are planning to do this hike end of October. Can you say anything about rivercrossings, as my girlfriend is small (1.60m = 63 inches). Thank you for this very detailed description!
Best regards, Matthieu
Hello Matthieu. Alan addresses river crossings in the article a few times, stating that they can be challenging and experience is recommended. What’s more late October is like spring in Patagonia, so expect the rivers to be flush. The major crossing is of Rio Jeinimeni Whether it is safe or not depends more on local conditions and your experience. Height makes it easier, but doesn’t guarantee safety. Definitely check in with rangers about this before starting your trip.
A few comments after having done the trail February 2023:
Beware of the numerous river crossings on day one and two, they consume a lot of time. Best thing is to wear hiking sandals on these days.
They have technically established a shuttle between Stone House and Westwinds, which is supposed to leave from Stone House every day at 4pm but it is not reliable, we missed it, despite being there way ahead of time. So take some extra food with you if you miss it and have to spend the night there.
They will tell you at the administration in Westwinds that camping at Lake Tamango is not allowed, which is rubbish, as we asked the local ranger. Just take the official campspot with the wodden bench at the northern side of the lake and not the other two unofficial ones. Also if you have paid at the entrance in Jeinimeni you do not have to pay again in the other sectors.
If you do the alternative route back to Cochrane from Lake Tamango (Cangrejo), which I highly recommend, best thing is to split it into two days, so you won’t have a super long hike and spend the night at the super beautiful lake Cochrane instead.
Hi,
Thank you for this guide, we will try out the trail within the next couple of days.
Are there any important updates you know of?
The Hyperlink to the ferry does not work anymore and on the CONAF Website it says some campsites at Jeinimeni are closed. We will figure it out and let you know.
Best
Hazim and Cornelia
Have a great trip. Looking forward to hearing about your trip. Best, -alan
Hi Hazim and Cornelia! Me and my husband are trying to get the ferry tickets or itinerary information from Puerto Ibáñez to Chile Chico. Could you let me know if you were able to book this for your trip and how? We are planning to do this route in March 2024. Thanks!
@Motivated By Mountains I see that they’ve made the
#giveashit pledge, lol, that’s awesome! Definitely makes sense to support American companies that are funneling money back into
protecting American public lands. And especially if
they’re able to keep their prices reasonable like this.
Hi Marina,
not sure you intended this comment to go here. Best, -alan
its relly amazing blog
Thanks for the kind words. Best, -alan
Hi again Alan.
Am back out on my 5th Chile/Argentina trip avoiding the long dark 15 hour nights of the UK.
A few updates on the hike.
The 2 main agencies have paired up to provide cheaper transport into Lago Jeinimeni. Costs 20,000 pesos now. As long as at least 3 passengers. Cost me $30 last year. A few other companies offering tours also.
More hikers on the trail but still no printed maps until you get to The Visitor Centre.
Easy to access Chile Chico from Los Antiguos on Routa 40 in Argentina. They are only 5km apart.
Transfer minibuses start at 08.30 from the bus terminal in Los Antiguos for 2,500 pesos. Several a day. Or walk or hitch hike to Chile Chico.
The political troubles in Chile have definitely seemed to have affected overseas tourist numbers… way less in Chile Chico this January. It’s settled and zero problems at the mo’.
Plenty of opportunities in local shops to change money in Chile Chico.
Some hostels/ campsites provide storage of extra gear. A lot are starting to charge per day now
Don’t stay Kon Aiken camping
Only ONE loo/ shower in one room for M and F. …. and it gets crowded and noisy but nearer Supermercado..
At entrance into town at the big arch are 2 campsites. They both charge 5,000pesos.
The Hosteria has lots of NEW showers and loos.. Sweet tree surrounded camping area with tables.
Camping other side of road is a bit more wind and dust prone and more scruffy but lots of tables.
Direct bus to Cochrane from Chile Chico 4 days a week. Return trip 3 days a week
6.5 hours on a tougher road but a direct route… hitch hiking this route can be hit and miss!!! Not too much traffic
OR… ferry to Puerto Ibanez across the Lago Carrerra where you hop on to immediate connecting bus to Balmaceda Airport followed by Coyhaique. Latter lots of facilities. It’s got all you need. Buses south to Cochrane, Rio Tranquillo and O’Higgins
Hope that answers some folks questions
All the best
Catherine
Hi Alan I came across your site today, and will keep it in mind when I return to Chile. I was part of a group of Australians who walked the Valle Avilles and Hermoso from Parque Patagonia in Feb 2016. We saw no one else on the walk. We also walked the Tamago circuit, and Cerro Castillo plus walks out Villa O’Higgins and the walk to the San Lorenzo hut. The Cerro Castillo walk is one I will not forget. We saw very few people on any of the walks. A wonderful part of the world with beautiful scenery, great uncrowded walks and really nice locals.
When I return to Chile I will check your site again, as it is full of information. In 2016 there was not a lot of information available on walks in this area. Enjoy your walks.
Steve
Thanks Steve! It sounds like you are a fellow Patagonia-lover. There are just so many hikes to explore there. Happy trails! -alison & alan
Just a heads up, coming from Cochrane where the parkland borders private lands and Parque Patagonia (the former Reserva Nacional Lago Jeinimeni) now has a locked gate and a no entry sign at its boundry. I’ve spent the past 5 SA summers here in Chile and Argentina and locked gates with no passing signs send a firmer message than just a livestock gate. For the most park a gate is for animals here I know. But a lock and a sign are usually indicative of no people too.
We didn’t see any park officials this transit of the park, (likely due to the New Year’s holiday). Could be a fluke, but since your GPS points go through there, might be best to check with the park this is a way to respectfully access the park…
That aside, glad you’re putting this place out there for more people to see, the Aysén region is one of the most beautiful places I’ve been in the world. Happy trails and be well.
Thanks for the heads up Mike. And this is a bit confusing since there are active Park Buildings at the Junction of #5 Los Huemules Trail and #6 Las Lengas Trail and park vehicles will need to get there. That is unless there is another way, Park vehicles will still need to go through the gate to get on the road that accesses to those Park buildings. Any ideas on your part?
Anyway, if the gate is truly a no-go, the work around is to continue from #6 Las Lengas Trail and take #1 Las Aguilas Trail back to a non-private road that goes to Cochrane. Best, -alan & alison
So where exactly is the locked gate? We are in Chile Chico now and planning to start the trek tomorrow morning. I think there is a CONAF office here in town. I’ll plan to ask about this today.
Hi Jeff,
It was on the walk out of Cochrane headed North; **Parqe Tamango** (not Jeinimeni, I referenced my notes incorrectly before).
First you pass a gate which Allen mentions, that was not a problem, but at the boundary to Tamango was where we found the sign and locked gate. Right near what appeared to be the old parqe headquarters for Tamango.
Just got back from the trek…and got confirmation on this from the park ranger. The land is definitely private and no trespassing. You’ll need to use #1 Las Aguilas Trail to and from town. Las Aguilas actually follows this fence line for quite some time. We went maybe 1k on it and met a Gaucho riding the fence line on the private side. Sooo, if you’re tempted to jump the fence and try it be prepared to explain yourself! Also, we were able to hitchhike the 4K from the rangers office into Cochrane.
Just wanted to thank you for such a thorough report. We’ve been planning this trip for about a year and leave in a couple of weeks. Your blog is the finest resource we have found to help us with planning. Thanks much!
Thanks for the kind words Jeff. Wishing you a great trek. Warmest, -alan & alison
Hi Alan,
Thanks for the great guide. But most of the travel options involve flying into Chilean airport. I prefer not to fly when at all possible and will be coming from the Argentinian side. Do you have any recommendations on travel to/from the NP from Argentina? I was thinking of stopping on the way from Bariloche to El Chalten.
Hi Jon- there are many buses that go between the two countries. You’ll need to do some research to see what fits best with your schedule and itinerary. El Calafate in Patagonia/Argentina has many buses heading to Chile and may have what you need. Happy trails!! -Alison & Alan
Alan,
Thanks for the information. Legitimate question here (don’t laugh): Would this trail be bike-able (and is it allowed)? We’re bike touring north to south and would love to check out this area. We don’t mind pushing through some rough spots, but obviously don’t want to push bikes for 18 miles. Looking online, I found one trip report of a biker on this trail (https://www.gonebikefishing.com/2017/12/into-cold-air/), but that was in the off-season.
Also, what about river crossings in early December? I imagine they will be pretty high.
Thanks!
Hi Jonathan, and a good but amusing question. Obviously there is a ton of bikepacking in Patagonia. As far as I can tell from a bit of research is that the W, and O Treks do not allow bikes. That would make sense since I think bikes and hikers on those trails would be completely incompatible — some are challenged by the foot traffic alone. That being said, there does appear to be a lot of challenging single track and dirt roads that bikes are allowed on in the vicinity of the park, or in private inholdings in the park. You might want to make inquiries with Hotel Las Torres. Hope this helps and be safe out there. Rubber side down. Best, -alan
Caveat Emptor: No guarantees that the information below is 100% accurate, or the routes they described allowed/legal.
Thanks for the quick response, though I was actually wondering about the Parque Patagonia trail in the article above. Specifically Lago Jeinemeni to the Casa de Piedra. Do you know if bikes are allowed (or advised) on that route? At first glance it looks tough but do-able.
Hi Alan,
I would like to follow this plan, but I have one concern. I am extremely afraid of heights. Are there any portions of this trip where there are narrow trails along a steep cliff, and are there area areas where there are very high hanging suspension bridges to cross? If so, do you have anywhere that I can see better pictures or videos of those?
Thanks,
Adam
Hi Adam, there are no narrow trails along steep cliffs altho there is some wading up front that frankly is more of a concern than any exposure to heights. That being said, on Day there is high suspension bridge (a few hundred feet above the river) about midway down Valle Aviles. It is clearly documented in the trip guide with a picture and caption. Link to pic pic is here. There is a workaround tho. If you go down the other side of V. Aviles (West side) there is no high bridge. You will need to cross Rio Aviles near Casa Piedra. But the bridge there is not high. Only a few feet above the river. Hope this helps and wishing you a great trek. Warmest, -alan & alison
Hi Alan! I’m hoping to go on a trip to the Aysen Region that involves both a longer (3-5 day) trek, and some day hiking based out of the beautiful lodge in the new Parque Patagonia. I’m looking at both this trek and the Cerro Castillo trek. Would you be able to help me understand the logistics of this? The main thing I’m struggling to understand is if I have to carry all my gear with me the entire time. If I did the trek you detail here, would it be possible to store extra clothing and gear (for the rest of my trip) at the park’s lodge, do the 4-5 day hike to Chile Chico (in the opposite direction than you list here), and then get back to my stuff at the lodge via bus? Hope that makes sense. :) And thanks in advance!!
Hi Jenny, nice to hear from you. Yes, storing your luggage in one of your lodgings on the trip makes a lot of sense. It is what Alison and I normally do. On this trip we stashed extra gear at our lodging in Coyhaique. We then set out for Cerro Castillo with just our backpacks, food, and some electronics charging gear. After Cerro Castillo we stayed in Chile Chico where we resupplied food, charged electronics and got a shuttle to Lago Jeinimeni. From there we stayed in the campground near the Lodge and had a lovely dinner at the lodge. Then hiked on to Cochraine where we stayed overnight and then caught the bus back to Coyhaique where we picked up our extra gear. [As for you, I don’t believe there is a bus to the Park Lodge from either Cochraine or Chile Chico. You’d likely need to arrange a private shuttle and/or hitch.] Hope this helps. Wishing you a great trek. Warmest, -alan & alison
Hm, I think you should ask the lodge directly (for storage). Not sure if there are busses to the entrance. They typically run only on the carretera austral. And back in April only twice a week (maybe because of holiday). Hitchhiking will work definitely and will be way faster. So yeah it’s doable I guess, but you will spend some extra time for going back and forth.
Hope you have more luck with the weather than I had :)
Have fun!
Hey Alan: We grabbed your GPS track and followed the route. Thank you. It was wonderful.
The road from Casa Piedra/ Stone House was a beautiful walk. I see a lot folk folks asking you if there is way to hick hike. Just my 2 cents. Walk it. Its an easy walk and its more stunning and quiet than most tails I have been on.
Hi Jay,
Thanks for the very positive feedback on our route and GPS track — good to know they are solid. As great to hear that you enjoyed the Carretera X-83 road walk. And, apologies for the late reply. Just back at a computer after a month of guiding Alaska’s Brooks Range and then some personal trips in Alaska. Now digging out of the backlog of being away from the internet for a considerable amount of time. Wishing you a lot more great trekking this year. Warmest, -alan & alison
Hi,
Thanks so much for compiling so much information on PNP. I’m co-leading a group of 8 students to backpack PNP this winter and this page has been super helpful so far.
Our target dates in the park are December 28th through January 2nd, which we know is the high season. As you suggest, our planned route is to start in Reserva Jeinimeni, then through Valle Aviles, then along Carretera X-83 to Westwinds Camping, then Lago Tamangito, and then end in Cochrane.
We have a few questions we were hoping you could answer:
Are there any specific logistics we should be aware of for a group of 10 backcountry hikers?
We saw that backpacking permits and campsites are limited in number but also first-come, first-serve. Is there any way that you know of to ensure that we will be able to leave on our planned date? Do you think we will be able to find enough places for our group of 10? Are there back-up options if the sites are full?
Is hiking along road X-83 from Casa Piedra to Westwinds the best way to get between these campsites? Or is there another route that doesn’t involve walking along the road?
Is it better to take the bus from Coyhaique to Cochrane or to take the bus/ferry combination?
How high is the water generally at this time of the year? And how bad are bugs at this time of year?
You said you had some issues with mice. Should we bear bag? Or is there something else that you recommend to protect our food?
Thank you so much!
Jackie
Hi Jackie, that sounds like a great trip! While I understand your need for information, I also understand the difficulty in getting it for this region. Being such a new trek, there are still many unknowns. That said, we will give you what we do know:
Happy trails!! -alison & alan
Finished the hike on the 18. of April. What can I say: it was nice (but unfortunately mostly cloudy), but some of the river crossings where insane. Water up to my belly, crazy strong current… pushed me off my feet twice so I was pretty much soaked. Can definitely not recommend in doing it right now. At Paso Los condores was a lot of snow. The two gates at the end are closed, but it is easy to jump over them. Alternative one could take a left at the park building towards the big lake. Guess that way is even nicer because you can avoid the new road down to the town.
Anyway: thanks for the post and the gpx track (saved me a couple of times walking on the river). Read it while boarder crossing to Chile Chico and decided to do it:)
Two old ladies gave me a ride to Jeinemeni.. so that was quite easy to reach
Gerald, nice to hear from you. And yes it is quite late in the year to do this trek — if not, “out of season” then very close to it. Not surprised you had snow and high water. Really glad you made it safely through and enjoyed the trek even with the cloudy skies. Wishing you a great year of drier and sunnier treks.
Warmest, -alan & alison
Just finished the hike with my son going northbound. Great weather:) Thanks for this page giving so much valuable info. Luis Burgos (number in comments below) picked us up at Jeinimeni after agreeing on this 5 days in advance when calling him in Cochrane. Really nice guy. A note. Suggested Campsite btw Casa Piedra and valley Hermoso was to far away from water so we choose a camp at the riverbed after the first nobo crossing. Cheers
Rafael, nice to hear from you. Glad you had a good trip. As to the campsite. Did you check for a spring. If it is the one I am thinking of, there is a small spring uphill of the trail. Best, -alan & alison
No, did not – we were looking for the main river and that seemed a couple of hundreds meters away. A lot of places to camp on the stretch I would say – both before and after your markings. Cheers!
Hi Alan – thanks again for the inspiration and GPX files (I also commented on your Cerro Castillo guide). We finished this trek a week or so ago and loved it. We were fortunate in that we had blue skies and sunshine for 4 days of the 5, and low river levels – so everything was very easy. We found the whole route well marked, and the trail was well maintained. Getting close to the end of the season, we only saw a handful of people – although apparently this year has been a lot busier than previous years – and they are expecting the same again in future.
We took the longer alternatives on days 4 and 5 – hard to say if day 4 (the longer side of the Lagunas Altas trail) was worth it, as this was the day we had rain so we didn’t see it at its best. Day 5 was very pretty though, with views over Lago Cochrane (although a few short, sharp uphills which are the last thing you feel like by that point)!
A few notes:
– From Balmaceda airport to Coyhaique as well as the transfer companies there is also a bus company (called Suray I think) – it meets flights just like the transfer companies and stops along the road into town, the bus terminal, and the plaza. It’s 2500 CLP per person, and got us there just as quickly as the transfer companies would have done.
– For anyone continuing south on the Carretera who doesn’t want to go back to Coyhaique, you can get the bus from Cochrane to Chile Chico (meaning you can leave luggage in Cochrane instead). It leaves at 7am Mon, Tues and 4pm Friday – and costs 13,000 CLP per person (takes around 4 hours). You must book ahead as it’s only a small bus which gets full – we had people turned away in the morning. The office is upstairs in the bus station. The scenery is spectacular (as per the rest of the Carretera!) so it’s no chore!
– We struggled to get a response from any of the companies mentioned here to take us from Chile Chico to the trailhead. The only one who replied was Jeinemeni Adventures – they charged 25,000 CLP per person for 2, and were reliable.
– At the end of day 2, if you want to carry on a bit further there are also a few spots around Km 16.5 and 12.5. If you got an early start I think combining days 2 and 3 would be feasible, if you don’t mind a long day (although you’d probably miss your chance to hitch from Casa Piedra – so may not save you much time in the end).
– The main routes for days 4 and 5 are do-able in a day – we knew a couple of people who did that because of the bad weather on day 4.
– On the final day both the gate just past the office at Reserva Tamango (the top of the access road), and the wooden one further down (the one that looks private) were padlocked shut, so we had to climb over. There was nobody around to ask – so not sure if this is still public access or not?!
And lastly a little plea to anyone reading this to camp responsibly…one guy on the trail with us seemed very proud of himself for stealth camping in the restricted areas in the lower Aviles valley, and the Chacabuco valley too. I prefer wild camping if that’s an option – but I also think we should respect the environment and regulations of where we’re visiting, and not give the more responsible campers a bad name. If you don’t like the rules then maybe choose a different place to hike :-)
Hi there,
we just hiked from Jeinimeini to the Stone House. Thanks for the great advice and the gpx. files. We were able to find someone in Chile Chico who offered transport to the Jeinimeini Park entrance for 20000 Pesos per person when four persons travelling (Garnik Bike +56991532218). Other hikers went from Refugio Valle hermoso to the stone house in one day. It took them about ten and a half hours.
Cheers
J
H J, glad you had a great trip. And thanks for the information. Always useful. Warmest, -alan & alison
About a week or two ago I finished my 3 week trip on the Carretera Austral. I also visited Patagonia Park. I was there only for two days and stayed on camping Westwinds. Unfortunately didn’t get to see the puma that roams the parking lot. I think too many campervans.
I did three hikes in the park, Sendero Canadon Chacabuco, La Vega trail from the entrance of the park to the camping and the Sendero Lagunas Altas. All three were great.
I met some people who were doing the hike to Chile Chico. When I was at the park there was a huge forrest fire nearby. There was a big blue cloud covering the park and everything smelled like smoke. At the Chile Chico part it was actually the worst so maybe it was good I didn’t have time to go there. They also closed off parts of Tamango park. This guy from the US said he woke up at 4 o’clock in the morning to avoid the parkrangers.
From Cochrane apparently there is a transfer bus which can take you to the park for 5000 Peso.
There is a Patagonia bus that goes from the park to Cochrane as well in the morning. I was told this bus is only for employees, not for tourists. But they could call a cab for me to take me to Cochrane. This would cost 30 thousand Peso. I decided to hitchhike. Too expensive. But in the morning there are almost no cars going in the direction of Cochrane. Most people do day trips and then leave in the afternoon. Luckily the Patagonia bus came by (around 11 o’clock) and took me to Cochrane. For free!
I got to the park taking a bus from Puerto Rio Tranquilo to Cochrane. I got out at Encruce Entrada Baker and started walking. After 45 minuten I decided to hitchhike and after 10 minutes got picked up by a really nice guy from the US that gave me a lift to the entrance of the park ánd the camping.
I think getting there was easier than getting out.
Anyways I love reading your blogs. Keep it up!
Alan:
Thank you for this information. We are using it as the basis for our trip in two weeks. Without it we would not have chosen this trek. Karma points to you for making our lives just a bit more interesting.
I was wondering if you wouldn’t mind commenting on the road walking Section on X-83. It does not seem that interesting We were thinking of taking the trail just to the south. But it is hard to tell where the Park boundaries are in Relationship to the reserves. And thus could we camp there.
Looking on the openTrail maps / Thundeforest : https://caltopo.com/m/SSME there is a campsite marked along the route.
Do you have any thoughts either way on this route?
Hi Karen, this is an excellent Q. Really! My understanding from the park is 1) that hiking off-trail is not allowed in the park. 2) There are no official trails on the north side of the Rio Chacabuco below the Stone House. There will be tails at one point to reach Valle Furioso. But for now since there is no bridge across R. Chacabuco to reach V. Furioso, there are no “official” trails on that side of the river. 3) R. Chacabuco is large and could be quite difficult and dangerous to cross even if you were an experienced wader (a packraft might work tho). And several of the side rivers feeding to to R. Chacabuco might also be difficult to cross. 4) it appear that the most difficult crossing of the R. Chacabuco would be 90% of the way down the valley (on your way to Camping Westwinds). Getting stuck here would be awkward to say the least. In summary, I am fairly sure that the park would not approve of this route (and I asked). And if you did get in to a difficult situation N of the Chacabuco River you might find yourself in a sticky situation with Chilean authorities — definitely not desirable. Hope this helps. Wishing you a great trek. Warmest, -alan & alison
Hi Karen, I know two very experienced Brazilian guys who´ve have hiked the section you´ve marked (south of Casa de Piedra) and I do not recommend it. It is very difficult there due to the characteristics of the vegetation, which is mostly “calafates”, a kind of thorny bush. This is the link with their tracklog (2014). Also, another experienced Brazilian party of three tried this section in 2017 and gave up pretty soon! It is definitely not worth it. I am heading to Parque Patagonia this week, will start the hike on March 2nd and have been doing quite a bit of research for the last few months. Hope this helps. Best Regards, Valerio
This is the link I have mentioned: https://pt.wikiloc.com/trilhas-montanhismo/travessia-parque-patagonia-5981347
Hi Alan,
Great info here. Wondering if you could share in terms of the following. We are about to embark for the Carretera and will be trekking the Cerro Castillo Circuit first, then making our way to Parque Patagonia. As we are carrying extra gear, such as laptops, camera lenses, etc. we want to store gear before trekking. Doing a through hike here obviously poses a problem as one has to return to the same place to pick up gear. Would you recommend going from Cerro Castillo to Chile Chico then hiking out to Cochrane, heading up to Rio Tranquilo for the sights there, and then back around? Or do it in reverse, going to Cochrane first, hiking to Chile Chico, and then swinging back around? The minimal transport and extra long way if you do the Rio Tranquilo option make it a bit of a slog. Any recommendations would be most helpful.
Best,
Dave
Good Q Dave. We had the same issue for extra food on our trek. And extra gear at the end of that we wanted to pickup after we had done both Cerro Castillo and Patagonia National Park. We left our heaver stuff in our Hotel Coyhaique and picked up again when we were done with both treks. The hotel was happy to do this for us. Then we had our shuttle driver drop us at the start of Cerro Castillo and the continue on (without us) to drop our food and extra fuel in Villa Cerro Castillo. I will point out that we carried all our electronics with us, cell phones, batteries, all camera gear (two pro setups including tripods) and everything to recharge them between trips. We did not carry a laptop or tablet. Instead we bought a 3 oz bluetooth keyboard which we used to type up trip notes etc. We took bus and ferry to get to Chile Chico. Shuttled to TH at Jenimeini and hiked all of PNP ending up in Cochrane. We then took the bus back to Coyhaique and picked up our gear at our hotel and moved on to our next destination. Hope this helps and wishing you a great trek. Warmest, -alan & alison
I forgot to mention I live in Colorado and am an avid hiker. I’ve been snowshoeing a lot in preparation for Africa trip that canceled so I am in good shape for hiking right now.
I have recently had to cancel a trip to Africa and have time between 2/14 and 3/8. Looking at Chile for options but not sure about getting my flights adjusted yet and availability for lodging/camping in Torres del Paine or the other beautiful options Cerro Castillo and Patagonia National Park. I am traveling alone and wondering best option(s) for me during this time off. First off, guess I would need to get my flight availability. I’m sure I can get in and out of Santiago OK with award miles. But the rest of the trip down may be more challenging.
The hiking is my priority, but ending the trip on a beach somewhere would be idyllic!
If you have thoughts/suggestions of how to plan this trip, I would be very grateful as time is pretty tight now for get reservations!
Thanks,
Mary
Nice to hear from you Mary. Late February would be a great time to be in Chile. And yes, at least for TdP reservations are going to be super important. Nearing the end of February should be a little “late season” and possibly a bit easier. You should book as early as you know your dates! For a single Woman TdP is super safe, both from a personal safety and difficulty of the trek perspective. Lot’s of people around, safe camping, and excellent trails. Cerro Castillo is not far off in terms of safety and do-ability solo. Altho there are a few wades but nothing super technical, and again there will be people around. Not as many as TdP but you’ll likely see a number of people on the trail each day. As for PNP, the first section of wading the rivers in R. Jeinimeni can be challenging and would be best done with a partner as it is not as well traveled as the rest of the Park. Once you reach mid-Vallle Aviles you’ll see more people. If you read through the comments section for PNP you see a comment by a woman that hooked up with a couple of other hikers in Chile Chico. They shared a car with her to the start at R. Jeinimeni and then hiked the 1st day with her to the hut (the day that has all the all the difficult river crossings). In either event, I would spruce up on deep, cold water wading skills. Hope this helps. Warmest, -alan & alison
Woman’s name is Steph. And she hooked up with two super nice Brazilians. See the comments. -a2
And a few others have chosen to do an out and back to V. Hermoso via the Stone House Trail Head and V. Aviles. This cuts out most of the wading R. Jeinimeni and simplifies logistics a bit.
Alan:
Wonderful writeup. Thank you.
A few quick questions. I believe you hiked it in March? I plan to hike with 3 others in March 2019. None of us have ever hiked south of Copper Canyon Mexico. Please humor our ignorance of Patagonia.
Bugs?
Sun?
Wind Velocity?
Deepest water crossing YOU encountered?
What am I not asking?
Nice to hear from you Yoshi. In response to your questions in order. 1) Bugs are virtually non-existent in March. 2) Sun is rarely an issue in Patagonia as most days consist of significant overcast, sometimes with spitting rain. Nonetheless there is the oddball sunny day that can cook you. As such, Alison and I normally hike a light long sleeve hoodie (OR Echo Hoodie) a ball cap with a ball cap. It’s the best lightweight sun protection outfit going but doesn’t heat you up. We even add a pair of light sun gloves. 3) Wind velocity is likely your biggest issue in Patagonia. Bring a strong tent and make sure that you camp in protected areas. And do get a wind forecast before leaving to make sure you aren’t heading out into a particularly bad set of winds (e.g. gusting 60 mph or higher). So far, this year has been much stronger winds than usual. 4) Per the guide the deepest water crossing is Rio Jeinimeni on day 1. ” Note: the most critical crossing of the day is of Rio Jeinimeni about 0.5 miles past Laguna Esmeralda. The river is deep and fast and you need to cross in the right/safest place [about mid-thigh when we went]. This is clearly marked as long as you pay close attention to the signs which are admittedly a bit confusing. Also make sure you pay close attention to the park ranger as he describes where to cross – and he will also let you know if it is OK to cross that day. [And as a rule of thumb don’t cross anything deeper than mid-thigh.]” 5) What you are not asking is how to deal day after day with combination colder temperatures, a fair amount of rainy overcast, and wind. You’ll need an excellent kit of clothes and some skills to stay warm dry for 5 day trip in these conditions [it was snowing every night by the time Alison and I left the park]. But hundreds of people manage. Wishing you a great trek in this fantastic park. Warmest, -alan & alison
Alan:
This note is few years late.
First of all thanks for this. We hiked it and it was wonderful.
I wanted to tell you that we had a bit of beginners luck. At the very first river crossing rio San Antonio, less than 24 hours on the ground on our first day in Patagonia we came up on 3 Huemul Deer.
Quite a treat!
Hi again Alan
This is surely a great place for info’.
A bit more to add from Chile Chico after having been here several days.
The route up from Lago Jeinimeni Administration office to first camp Raleigh… and beyond over The Gloria Pass is now well marked with large wooden posts with red stripes. Also many cairns.
Lots and lots of river crossings tho
Waste of time changing each time…never ending
Wade through with your trail shoes permanently on!! They will soon dry off.!!
Camping Raleigh is beside Lago Verde. It’s Tranquilo and beautiful
A range of operators now that provide transport and tours
The best one and cheapest was Garnik Bike. Road from Argentina end of Chile Chico.. side road near bridge and red arch.
Jeinimeni Adventures also
No one ever seemed to be in The Patagonia Express office
Garnik bikes were the best
Will drop you off at the 25 km spot to visit the Lunar valley and spiky volcanic landscapes on their way up to Jeinimeni with other clients
I got transport wth Garnik to Jeinimeni for $30
Patagonia Express wanted $80!!
Biggest problem is not enough folk in town to make up tours of groups of 3/4 min.
Can hitch in and out of Jeinimeni but it’s 60 km road if you get stuck
Lots of private vehicles up and down
Take extra emergency food in case
The bus to Puerto Guadal leaves Chile Chico only twice a week
The ferry to Puerto Ibáñez goes every day but book ahead
Daily buses from Ibáñez to Coyhaique
I am going to access the Patagonia Park Chacabuco section from Cochrane as logistically easier by walking from Tamango into… easier to escape from
Cheers
Hope this helps future travellers/ hikers
Winds here this season are phenomenal compared to last 2 seasons and every day… just never abate
Fitzroy couldn’t stand up barely or even walk down the road!!!
Cheers
Catherine
Thanks for all the good info Catherine. Glad you are having a great time in Patagonia again. And agreed, the winds are particularly strong this year. We had 80 to 100 kph gusts, even on “good” days. Got blown down a number of times. We got a heads-up this was the case and brought a full-on, high mountaineering tent with us (same type of tent you would use on Everest) and were very glad of it. Warmest, -alan & alison
Hello Alan!
What a great site – thank you so much for doing this more accessible to us rookie hikers;)
My son and I are going northbound through Patagonia, starting at Torres del Paine on Feb 24th 2019 and then moving thru El Chaltén and later in March up through Carretera Austral.
It looks like a plan in theory doing the PNP in the Cochrane –> Chile Chico direction, then transporting on to Villa Cerro Castillo, doing the Castillo-circuit with the end at Las Horquetas and onto Coyhaique.
I.e. more or less in the opposite direction of your descriptions (since we are northbound). Will it be hard finding transportations into Chile Chico from Lago Jeinimeni or from Las Horquetas to Coyhaique? Any other advice from you?
Cheers
Rafael
Hi Rafael, we’re excited for all the trekking you’ll do in Chile and Argentina! You can look through the comments on PNP and CC Guides for information about transport — there’s been a lot of activity and good info lately. Buy to summarize, you can contract for a private shuttle. The name of the shuttle driver we used for Lago Jeinimeni was “Luis Burgos Barrientos,” [email protected], +56965117622. You can also contact guiding companies based and Chile Chico and they can likely arrange a shuttle for you. ‘Patagonia Express’ has a Chile Chico office and the can arrange a shuttle for you. As to getting from Las Horquetas to Coyhaique. I would imagine you might have some of the issues mentioned at the end of the CC Guide. That is, the busses heading to Coyhaique might be full at that point, and it’s unclear if they they would stop at Las Horquetas. You could likely hitchhike into Coyhaique (much of the traffic will be going there). Or you could contact one of the Coyhaique based Guiding Co’s and arrange for a pickup with them. Hope this helps and wishing you a great trek. Warmest, -alan & alison
More good news, Alan…
I will also need transport into the Park and found out today that the Tour Operator is called ‘Patagonia Express’; they run hiking day trips out of their Chile Chico office and also provide transport for solo backpackers. I emailed them today and got a reply within a few hours. Rosie and Andres. I was impressed!!
Rosie said they will also organise transport back to Chile Chico if required.
Hope this helps folk here..as well as me!!
All the best..
Hi again Alan,
Just been reading the last couple of messages of 2019.
Ive decided to access PNP from Los Antiguos and Chile Chico.
Apparently there’s more transport going there (PNP ) now as its becoming better known.
Companies making up groups for return day hikes and basic one way transport it seems….googled as much possible latest info as possible.
Theres also a company advertising a group trek..expensive but a possibility for someone with a tight schedule.
I hope by the time I arrive in a few weeks time, that there will be less of a problem getting into the Park.
As regards buses leaving Cochrane going North…plenty but book the previous day.
The further North the more buses available.
Any blockages, Chile provides a free ferry.
Hope this helps.
Any more independent trekkers out there want some company for PNP?
Cheers from the UK.
Thanks for the good info Catherine! Very helpful. Warmest, -alan & alison
Hi Alan,
I’m a big fan of this site, you do an incredible job. My wife and I are planning to follow the Patagonia NP Trek, exactly as you have described it here, in mid-February. There were only a few things I wasn’t 100% clear on. First, is the permit you recommend getting from the ranger in Reserva Jeinimeni is the only permit you need to follow the entire route you’ve described? Also, is there any limit, that you know of, to the number of permits they will issue? It seems like there will be few other people hiking this route (which is why we want to do it) but it’s quite a journey getting there, I just want to make sure there is not a high probability that they will not be able to issue us a permit. Lastly, you also mention you traveled from Chico to the trailhead at the Reserva via $150 ride. Was that a cab, a backpacker shuttle? Is it difficult to find a high clearance cab that can make the trip out to the trailhead?
Thanks so much for any help you can provide and please keep up this great work.
Greg
Hi Greg, glad you are excited about PNP. Yes, the only permit you need for the route will be the entrance fee for R. Jeinimeni. And you’ll also need to pay if you plan on staying at V. Hermoso. As far as we know there are no quotas for entering the reserva — but to be honest we did not ask. But I don’t think this is super traveled route (yet!). We saw only one person between R. Jeinimeni and the bridge in Valle Aviles. And there are are a fair number of campsites at V. Hermoso so it would take a number of folks to fill it up. We do have the name of the shuttle driver we used “Luis Burgos Barrientos,” [email protected], +56965117622. You can also contact guiding companies based and Chile Chico and they can likely arrange a shuttle for you. As to a taxi, we are uncertain. One would need a high clearance vehicle to make on the last few miles of road to the park entrance — some taxis may well be capable of making the trip. Hope this helps and wishing you a great trek, warmest, -alan & alison
Thanks Alan! We’re all set up with the shuttle service (went with Patagonia XPress per your recommendation) and start our trek mid-February. Very excited for this and so grateful to have found your guide. Keep up the great work. Was just looking at your post on Escalante Overland and may do tackle that one in April. We live in the region and have done a lot of 3-4 night trips there but that longer trip looks really fun/challenging.
Good deal Greg. Have a great trek!
Greg:
We are looking at following in your footsteps in Mid March. Would love a trip report form you when you return!
Hi, Alan.Thanks for this site and all your info.
Mi esposa and I along with one of my best friends are going to PNP in late February. Working stiffs that we are, we have 10 total days in country. Our plans now are to hike in PNP for five or six days including an out and back through Valle Aviles and Valle Hermosa, staying at Stone Camp and then back over to Westwinds campground and a day or so of hiking south, maybe to Cochrane. We’d like to finish up with a couple days in Tortel and then back to Coyhaique.
Our biggest issue here is transportation and I’m hoping you might have some information. I understand the bus schedules and we’ve checked into renting a car (expensive!!!). We are concerned because of a tight transfer time from one bus to another in Tortel. So, my question is, really, are there drivers or driver services, like shuttles, that are available to get the three of us to PNP and, possibly, from Tortel to Cochrane/Coyhaique? My research has yet to show anything.
Can’t wait…looks like epic hikes in PNP and my first time in the Southern Hemisphere.
Thanks,
Jeff
Hi Jeff, great that that you’re finally heading down to the Southern Hemisphere. South America is a wonderland not visited by most Norte Americanos! Yeah, transportation in the Aysen Region of Chile is not super easy. First, fair warning that Bus Schedules that are online do not always correspond exactly to the printed schedules hung in the stations (which are the real schedule). From your email, I am assuming that you must be heading from Tortel to PNP. Can you confirm this?
Otherwise, the Bus to and from Cochrane to Coyhaique if fairly simple and not expensive. There are a number of Buses each day. So if you were flying in and out of Coyhaique transport to and from Cochrane would not be an issue. So as I see it, your only real issue is transport from Cochrane to Stone House to start your first trek. For that you could either hitch hike (high season and you might have good luck) or hire a driver in Cochrane. For that, I would likely do some internet searching, emailing and calling, to arrange for a private shuttle from the States before your trip (that is what we did to get from Chile Chico Jeinimeni). We do have the name and numbers of private drivers for both Coyhaique and Chile Chico but none for Cochrane. Hope this helps and wishing you a great trek. Warmest, -alan & alison
Thanks for your quick reply, Alan & Alison. Very helpful.
Actually, on the front end of our trip, we go from Coyhaique to PNP. In the middle, after s5-6 days in PNP, we plan to bus from Cochrane to Tortel. It is coming back from Tortel to Coyhaique in one day that seems a bit dicey due to connections. Apparently, we must make a connection in Cochrane for another bus to Coyhaique. If the bus leaving Tortel is on time, no problem. If not, we miss the next bus. Of course, we could make it a two day trip. Anyway, that’s why I wondered about private drivers who might be available for part or the entire route. If you have a list of names, that’s great.
Thanks again.
Jeff
A
Hi again Jeff. As to the bus connection from Tortel to Coyhaique, at this point you are likely as knowledgeable as we are. In South America some connections work out and some do not… But when we were in Coyhaique there were plenty of buses each day to Coyhaique but maybe only one that is late enough for your purposes. We do have the name of the shuttle driver we used “Luis Burgos Barrientos,” [email protected], +56965117622. You can also contact guiding companies based and Chile Chico and they can likely arrange a shuttle for you. One option would be to have hime meet you in Coyhaique. It would likely be expensive but maybe split between a few people it might be OK. Wishing you a great trek, -alan & alison
Hi Alan,
We would like to end the trek in Chile Chico as we’re heading to el Chalten afterwards. If we do the trek in reverse starting in Cochrane and ending by Lago Jeinemeni is it possible to get a taxi from there to Chile Chico?
thanks
Hi Tarig, hiking from Cochrane to L. Jeinemeni is certainly doable. Getting a taxi from L. Jeinemeni is not possible unless you had a Sat Phone so that you could call to Chile Chico from the Lago. And even then, it could be a long wait for the driver to come, as it’s 1 hr 30 min or so to L. Jeinemeni on some not great dirt roads. There us always the option of hitch hiking back to Chile Chico with people leaving the park (there are day hikers). This would be more likely in the high season. Your last and possibly best option is to arrange with a driver ahead of time to pick you up at a certain time on a certain day. We have the name of one driver we used if you are interested. Wishing you a great trek, -alan & alison
Hi Alan,
First off, thank you so much for all the helpful information on this page. Your page is the only one with an in depth write-up and GPX file which I truly appreciate.
My friends and I plan on doing a portion of this trek this upcoming weekend from Casa de Piedra in the Chacabuco Valley up to Lago Verde and then back again. Do you think it would be worth extending the trek a bit further to Laguna Esmeralda & Lago Jeinemeni? Our current plan is to end our out route at the western end of Lago Verde. We are also hoping to complete the out & back in 4 days, but I’m thinking that added mileage to Lago Jeinemeni will put that timeline out of reach.
Thoughts?
Hi HLC. I think that up to Lago Verde and back would be an excellent hike. I think you’ll see the best of the best including Valle Hermoso. And given your time constraints it’s likely your best option. It a long way from L. Verde to continue to Laguna Esmeralda & Lago Jeinemeni. It involves a steep climb over a ridge, a long riverbed walk with wading, and then the deepest wade of the route to get to L. Jeinemeni. Hope this helps, and wishing you a great trek. Warmest, -alan & alison
Awesome.. we’ll stick with the original plan. Thanks again!
We are trying to plan a hiking trek somewhere in Patagonia and are interested in this newer trek. What are the logistics as far as getting back to original start point or how do people travel once they’ve finished the 60km trek? Are there only designated campsites along the way? How much is entrance fee? How far from airport is the park? Thank you!
Hi Nicole, glad that you are interested in the new Patagonia National Park Trek. Our guide to the trek is quite detailed and contains all the information that you asked for. But in summary, there are busses and/or ferries to get you to the park from both Cochrane and Coyhaique (although you will need to hitch or hire a shuttle to get you the last distance to the park). The logistics and info for these is in the trip guide. Normally, you do not go from the Airport to the park. Instead, you take a shuttle from the Airport to Coyhaique, stay overnight and then take a Bus out in the morning to get to the park. This is also explained in detail in the guide.
The only entrance fee is from Jeinimeni and that is a nominal amount. Cost is $3,000 CLP per person to enter and another $10,000 CLP to camp at the only hut in the park. There are not designated campsites per se in the backcountry (wild camping), but it is always best practice to camp in the obvious campsites. Backcountry camping: There is only one backcountry hut on the trek (in Reserva Jeinimeni). It is also the only backcountry campsite with an outhouse. In Parque Pataonia proper, wild camping is only allowed in upper Valle Aviles above the suspension bridge (otherwise wild camping is not allowed in Parque Patagonia). In Reserva Jeinimeni you are restricted to designated campsites. In Reserva Tamango wild camping is allowed but try to use existing camps. Campgrounds: Parque Patagonia has three car accessible, non-backcountry campgrounds with toilets, shelters and picnic tables ($8,000 CLP/person). In Park Lodging: There are high end/expensive rooms at the Lodge in the Park Headquarters. Again, this is all in the guide.
Wishing you a great trek in this exciting new park. Warmest, -alan & alison
Hi Alan,
I’m out in Patagonia again for 2 months in Jan and Feb 2019.
I walked the Tamango circuit from Cochrane earlier this year.
I fancy going bit further now the Park is open but don’t fancy doing the first day from Chile Chico.
I would prefer starting from Cochrane again and hiking in the opposite direction.
I don’t mind backtracking to Cochrane…linear if I have to…..using it as a base.
Perhaps a 3/4 day trip beginning and ending there.
Any suggestions for a good route?…taking in the best scenery.
Thanks,
Catherine. UK.
Hi Catherine, and yes, the trek can be done from R. Tamango/Cochrane to R. Jeinimeni/Chile Chico. As for a good route: you could try a differnet route through R. Tamango and Lagunas Atas. That is, skip Sendera Las Lengas, and take the long way via Sendero 5, Los Huemules, to Sendero 8, Los Pumas and Sendero 7, Los Valles. And once in the Parque Patagonia you can head east and take the long way around Lagunas Altas rather than descending directly to Camping West Winds. If you want to end up in Cochrane again, you could go up to Valle Aviles, camp above the bridge (possibly day hiking briefly into Valley Hermoso in R. Jeinimeni) and then return back down V. Avilles on the the other side of R. Aviles from the way you came up. Wishing you a great trek. Warmest, -alan & alison
Many thanks Alan
Will check it out
Catherine
Alan,
Are water bottles in the side pockets of the HMG 2400 Southwest easy to access with the pack on? I have an old HMG 3400 Porter and purchased the porter water bottle holder to go with it, which works great. With the attached water bottle holder and front pocket my pack weighs around 38oz, a bit on the heavy side. I want to get a pack with a little less volume and weight and thought maybe the 2400 Southwest would be worth checking into. Just want to make sure water bottles would be easy to access with the pack on. Thanks!
Hi Jeff, I have never had a problem pulling a 1 Liter Sawyer or Platypus out of the side pocket while walking and then put it back. But I have decent shoulder flexibility. Others find it a bit more difficult. I do know that HMG intends the side pockets to be accessible to take a bottle out of (and put it back) without taking the pack off. As to the 2400 vs. 3400 for the Southwest I would get the 3400. The only difference between the two packs is that the 3400 has a taller extensions collar so that it can carry more. Otherwise the main body of the pack has the same dimensions. And it only weighs a few ounces more. So it’s no wonder that I carry a HMG Southwest 3400 (with the larger hipbelt pockets) to Patagonia this spring. And the pack is currently on sale for 15% off. Hope this helps. Warmest regards, -alan & alison
Reading above I see The MLD Trailstar mentioned as a possible shelter.
Bear in mind that wild camping isn’t allowed everywhere.
There are some sites in the towns where the camp sites are locals back yards or gardens.
The Trailstar has a large footprint that in the places Ive camped in, would be a nightmare to pitch with so little spare space.
One garden had squeezed in 40 tents like sardines..AND…it was silent post 22.00.
Ive done 3 long trips to Patagonia and Peru this last 12 months and each time I have used a Free Standing tent. Big Agnes Copper Spur 2, MSR Hubba and the MSR Hubba Hubba NX.
I used the Hubba Hubba NX in Peru at 5,000mts.
Most of the camp sites are in sheltered positions to mitigate the effect of the wind.
My next trip to Patagonia in January will be with the Hubba NX again.
Anything that isn’t, ‘Trek Pole’ dependant is a doddle…pitched in seconds…anywhere…any terrain.
Just saying’…………
How’s the climate in early to mid December versus January? I am considering doing this trek this year (next month)
Jay, an excellent question! As of Oct 31, 2018, we have reports that a recent storm has dropped a lot of snow on Cerro Castillo and that CONAF closed park trails. So it is best to check the CONAF Site before you go in early season. Also check out the “Time of Year” entry in this guide. Wishing you a great trek, warmest -alan & alison
Thanks Alan! Great website by the way.
Are there enough trees along the way to make use of a hammock? Or should I rather take my bivy/tarp setup?
Jay,
I can’t say for sure that a hammock would work in Patagonia. Sometimes the sheltered areas to camp are surrounded by more bushes and shrubs than trees. Just don’t think there would be a guarantee of sufficiently large trees at all campsites.
As to the tarp, Patagonia can be insane windy. This might well be a place where a tarp is not appropriate. Tarps just a bit too drafty and too loaded by wind. If you are looking to save shelter weight I would likely go with a more protected shelter like and MLD or Hyperlite Mountain Gear ‘Mid. Hope this helps, warmest, -alan & alison
I am very grateful for your advice Alan! The HMG Mid is a little over my budget. Thinking of purchasing this tent for $200: https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.massdrop.com/buy/massdrop-x-dan-durston-x-mid-1p-tent&ved=2ahUKEwjaj6ewz-7eAhUg3YMKHXyxBZAQFjAAegQIBRAB&usg=AOvVaw0BmjdtsPSiABsXP6pIjzR7&cshid=1543117170037
Hi Jay, tent looks decent enough but without having one in hand it’s hard to say definitively. I do know that people have successfully used Tarptents in major Patagonia Parks albeit with using care to find the most sheltered locations in exposed campsites (it can be done if if you think hard). You other option is to get one of the less expensive Silnlyon ‘mids from MLD. Both the SoloMid and DuoMid (would be my 1st choice even for solo) are $265. Alison and I used a SilNylon DuoMid XL in Torres del Paine and it was great. Hope this helps, warmest, -alan & alison
Hi Catherine, glad that your smaller footprint Big Agnes Copper Spur UL2 is working well for you. But it sounds like your criteria is for using it all over South America in a large number of places, not just major national parks. That makes sense.
BUT our quite large 2-person Pyramid Shelter, the Mountain Laurel Designs DuoMid XL worked just fine in all the campsites for Cerro Castillo, Patagonia National Park, and in Torres del Paine. In all of these parks the tent-sites were quite large and would have accommodated shelter far bigger than our large pyramid shelter. Warmest regards, -alan & alison
Hi Alan!
Thank you so so much for this amazing post. I just bought my flight from Puerto Montt to Balmaceda, after figuring out that the ferry or bus were not viable options with my schedule. I’m in Pucon now, heading to Puerto Varas tomorrow. Next weekend I’ll head to Coyhaique. Since you have so much information about this hike, I’m hoping you can help me out with my slight trepidation.
I’m a solo female traveler with backpacking experience in Alaska (I live in Fairbanks). How concerned should I be about the river crossings and navigation? I have 2 trekking poles that will be with me at all times.
Also, how much do you think I can hope for hitching a ride from Chile Chico to the park?
Hi Steph, The most difficult river crossing is Rio Jeinimeni right at the start of the trek. We went in March and were able to wade it at about mid-thigh deep and there had been some rain the last few days to raise the river level a bit. At the trip start the Ranger at the entrance station will advise you of river levels and where to wade when you get your permit (Both for Jeinemeni and upper Valle Aviles). Ask for all the wading info you can get. Trekking poles are a must. And you will want to pay good attention to the exact places the ranger tells you to wade. And you might even be able to pair up with somebody to cross the River gang-wade style which is much safer. Other wades in Jeinemeni are not quite as bad. Patience to find the best locations for deep wades will pay off. There is usually a better place if you scout around a bit. There are a few wades in Valle Aviles that are a bit deep and fast too. But again take your time and find a good route. After upper V. Aviles the rest of the route has no significant wades.
And if rivers are really too high you could always head down to Stone House and do an out and back overnight in upper Valle Aviles. Just go up one side and down the other. Then continue the trek normally. As always trekking poles are a huge help/almost essential for wading. Hope this helps. Wishing you a great trek. Warmest, -alan & alison
Steph, as to hitching it could be fairly lean. Not a ton of people go up the dirt road to the entrance of P. Jeinimeni — but that was March, so not peak season. I am guessing that you would have better luck on weekends Sat or Sunday as there are a fair number of people who day hike in the park on the weekends. Guessing your best shot is to get to the intersection of Ruta 265 and X-753 about 2 km west of Chile Chico proper. That way you’ll get only traffic that has turned onto X-753. But note that some of these people will be fishermen driving to fish along the R. Jeinimeni so not going all the way to L. Jeinimeni and the Park Entrance. Alternatively you can ask around town and see if anybody is going up or wants to share the cost of a shuttle to the Entrance. Wishing you all success, -alan & alison
Oh, and once you are back do let us know how things worked out. -a2
Thank you so much for the info, Alan and Alison!
What a gorgeous hike with great weather, scenery, and things going as planned. Apparently I was worried about being able to hitch a ride, as I ended up calling after 2 guys in the streets of Chile Chico who had big packs, trekking poles, and spare shoes. They had just gotten off the ferry, as well. I asked if they knew english and where they were going trekking. When there answer was Jeinimeni, I was pretty happy! They had a shuttle booked for 6am the next morning and called to see if there’d be room for one more. I didn’t know if I for sure had given up hopes of hitching, so we connected on WhatsApp. In the morning I joined them and paid $50 for my ride.
Felipe and Igor are 2 Brazilian guys who were my hiking buddies for day one. Since I have limited Spanish skills, they were able to get information from the ranger at Jeinimeni and pass it on to me. The river crossings weren’t bad at all; Jeinimeni was maybe just over knee height on me, and I’m a short 5’4.” (I think I’m more used to colder, more silty river crossings in which you can’t see the bottom, and therefore footing is much more sketchy. Being able to see my feet and all the rocks made me a lot more comfortable.)
Lago Verde was amazingly blue for us! Its name should change with the weather. I stayed alone at Valle Hermoso since the other guys were hoping to reach Casa Piedra the next day. But since they’d asked where I was planning on staying the second night, they got into my competitive head. I decided to combine days 2 and 3 for a 20 mile hike! Yikes. That was the longest I’ve tackled in a day of backpacking. 7:27 to 19:35. When I turned inside one of the rooms at Casa Piedra and saw my 2 friends, I don’t know who was more surprised! :) My nickname had been ‘Ice Girl’ – because I live in AK, work in Antarctica (last Oct-March, this Dec-March), and travel in Patagonia – but my second nickname is ‘Steph Machine.’
Getting to Casa Piedra while they were there worked out perfectly, as they were getting picked up to head back to Coyhaique the next morning. They offered to drop me at the park HQ! I felt a little lazy for not walking the Chacabuco road, but I was also fighting a cold. Initially I was going to take a day off and just relax, but that’s not in my nature. I climbed up and over Los Condores with a 3rd day of blue skies and no wind. What gorgeous views!
Only the 4th day offered some clouds, but since that was just a walk downhill in the woods, it was fine. I made it into Cochrane around mid-day, well beating the rain showers that came and went in the afternoon.
Again, thank you for all the information here! People around the world are very appreciative, as you know. Hope I didn’t bore you with this long response. :)
> Again, thank you for all the information here! People around the world are very appreciative…
Hi Step, the pleasure is all ours. Sharing information and wonderful hiking places with likeminded adventurers is what it’s all about. And so glad you so much enjoyed the hike — sounds like you found a new set of super fast hiking legs! What a hoot that you and Igor crossed paths in Patagonia. It is indeed a special part of the world where one serendipitously meets both new and old friends. I too have bumped into friends in remote parts of Patagonia. Maybe we’ll bump into each other at some point in our travels. Wishing you a lifetime of great trekking, warmest, -alan & alison
Hi Alan,
Thanks for all you do. This is exceptionally helpful.
Myself and two friends will be in this area the last half of February/early March. We are considering doing this trip in reverse, going South to North, and then returning to Stone House after crossing over into Valle Hermoso. My question is this: can one get a permit for camping in Jeinimeni Reserve from the Parque Patagonia HQ/Visitor Center?
Again, many thanks for this useful site.
Jason
Hi Jason. South to North should work. A few thoughts. 1) It is quite a steep climb up from Cochrane to Lago Tamangito. To make it easier you might consider getting a ride to “the gate” and start your trek there. This avoids some none to interesting walking on roads. 2) There is a CONAF Office in Cochrane (near the edge of town) and you could make inquiries about R. Jeinimeni entrance fees when entering from Parque Patagonia, as there is entrance station between the two areas. Your second chance to inquire will be at the visitors center, park HQ for Parque Patagonia near Camping Westwinds. Finally if all that fails, I would suggest being a good citizen and paying your fees at the Entrance Station for R. Jenimeni when you exit the park. We ran into one Austrian heading that direction and assume that this was likely his plan, although he could have had a permit from the Park HQ in Parque Patagonia. Oh, and please let us know what you find out. Hope this helps and wishing you a great trek. Warmest, -alan & alison.
Thanks, Alan, this is so helpful.
We’ll let you know what we find out. My friends and I got together over the weekend to do some trip planning so we are getting very amped up about the trip.
Glad to see you are a MLD fan – I am bringing a MLD Trailstar to weather the wind.
Jason
Yeah, MLD shelters are great. -a
Hello Alan. I’m planning to do this trek next March and, while I was looking for some information, I found your page. It’s really great. Two days ago, I downloaded the map, and today I realized that you have also loaded the GPX. Thank you very much! Last year I stayed for three days in West Wind camping site and I did the Lagunas Altas loop trail. I really enjoyed it!. Best regards from Uruguay. Martin
Our pleasure, Martin. Have a great trek and pass on the good word about this guide. Warmest, -alan & alison
Hi Alan,
I’m thinking of going to Patagonia in March. This trek looks amazing. I’ll be solo, though, and my concern is that the river crossings may be too dangerous. If the rivers are high, is it usually just a matter of waiting out a storm/crossing early in the morning? Is there an alternative to avoid or bypass them?
I don’t want to end up having to cancel my whole trek when I get to the first river. I travel with poles and am decent (but not expert) at picking a crossing, however I’m careful and, especially when solo, will err or the side of caution.
Hi Cathy, March should have some of the lowest River levels since it’s late summer/early fall and most of the snow runoff is done. The most difficult river crossing is Rio Jeinimeni right at the start of the trek. We went in March and were able to wade it at about mid-thigh deep. At the trip start the Ranger will advise you of river levels and where to wade when you get your permit. You might even be able to pair up with somebody to cross the River gang-wade style which is much safer. And if it is really too high you could always head down to Stone House and do an out and back overnight in upper Valle Aviles. Just go up one side and down the other. Then continue the trek normally. As always trekking poles are a huge help/almost essential for wading. Hope this helps. Wishing you a great trek. Warmest, -alan & alison
Hi Alan,
Thank you again for your informations.
I am going to Chile next week, and maybe I will do this trek, Do you have plans to load the GPX file soon?
Regards
Igor, the .GPX files are live and can be downloaded from this Guide.
Haha, I think this is the Igor with whom I caught a ride to Jeinimeni! He and his friend had your website printed, and I had it saved on my phone. It became a talking point. :)
Alan and Allison — this is terrific. Sorry for confusing the various web pages; we did read through the TdP guide and it formed the basis for our trip planning, though we plan to take it a little more slowly than you did. We’ll plan on one two-person tent and will do a bit more research on store hours in Puerto Natales. Thank you so much again for the information and good wishes!
Hi Alan,
Thank you for this wonderful blog. A friend and I are planning a trip to do the O Trek this February. We were wondering if you might have any insights on the following questions:
1) Do you know how many tents might fit on a platform? We were debating between bringing two individual tents or one double.
2) Would you have recommendations on places to get fuel in Puerto Natales at a late hour? (or, we would also be glad to e-mail folks in advance). We arrive at 9:30 p.m. and then start out early the next morning.
3) Finally, we fly in to EZE and were wondering if we should anticipate any issues with customs in terms of bringing in (1) freeze dried food or (2) oatmeal that would be rehydrated.
Thanks so much!
Hi MST, nice to hear from you. We are a little confused as you’ve posted Torres del Paine questions in the Patagonia National Park Trek Guide, but here goes. First, much of the information you asked for is in our TdP Guide. You might want to read a bit deeper into if you haven’t already.
1) You might be able to fit two tents on a platform but we wouldn’t count on it, the are intended for a single tent. As such, we think a larger tent would be a safer bet. 2) You will be able to get alcohol fuel at Cruz Verde pharmacias, so you whatever time their stores are open is your limit there. Otherwise, otherwise for fuel canisters there are the standard outdoors stores, and some hardware stores (ferraterias) again whatever hours they are open. You might be able to get fuel at Erratic Rock. Your other option is to check the giveaway boxes in the front lobbies of hostels. Many times there are semi-used canisters there. 3) As to bringing food in, from our guide: “follow all regulations (click for link) (unfortunately, only in Spanish) regarding bringing food into the country, including declaring what you bring in! My best understanding from reading the reg’s and from reports from other trekkers as of Jan 2017, is that fruit, vegetable, meat and milk products cannot come into the country—including dried and dehydrated versions. They will check at customs when you enter Chile. According to other trekkers, sealed backpacking meals are OK. As such, you will likely need to at least partially provision in Punta Arenas (best/more options) or Puerto Natales to complete your food for the trip. We bought our cheese, dried fruit, and dried meats once we were in Chile.”
Hope this helps and wishing you a great trek in TdP. Warmest, -alan & alison
Hi guys, thanks for posting your Patagonia National Park Trek Map, indeed a very valuable resource. I am preparing myself to trek Park Patagonia solo next Feb and was wondering if you still have the gpx file of this trek to share. Many thanks! Regards, Valerio
Hi Valerio, working on this. Stay tuned. Warmest, -alan & alison
Hi Alan,
Returned from 2 ‘Memory’ trips in Patagonia, 2017 and 2018, a total of 10 weeks.
Grateful for your past advice.
In Torres and Fitzroy I used the Big Agnes Copper Spur 2. Was glad I took the 2 person for the extra liveability..it was November but I didn’t have to use my waterproof once!!! Very little wind also…a terrific month there.
All the designated camps were sheltered.
In hindsight, could have used the Copper Spur 1 easily.
Free Standing a doddle and now prefer to my MLD/Zpacks shelters.
In Jan/Feb, i returned to travel the Carretera Austral from Chalten…Terrific trip.
Took the MSR Hubba NX.
Again good weather and the one person tent was sufficient, especially so in some back yard campsites where a small footprint was invaluable.
The only problem/Issue I had was accessing Alcohol for my stove.
Found UK version of Methylated Spirit in Punta Arenas..searched in every shop. Second time around, the shop had closed down and couldn’t source any.
Non existent in Argentina.
Had to use a gas canister there.
Where did you get Alcohol/Meths/Alcohol de Quemar?? in Chile?
I hiked the Tamango circuit from Cochrane…terrific but very long day plus foot went in a deep hole and fell flat onto my face…black eye next day!!
Many thanks
Catherine
Hi Catherine, good to hear from you. Sounds like you has a wonderful trip! Apologies for the late reply. I was in the field for an extended period. So glad that you liked the Tamango circuit from Cochrane. Alcohol in Chile is found in Cruz Verde Pharmacias in plastic bottles. We found it there both in Chile Chico and in Puerto Natales. Wishing you many more great treks. Warmest, -alan & alison
Many thanks Alan
why do you grey out the photos so i can’t see them as i scroll? Very odd…
While you scroll, keep your mouse to one side or the other of the photos If you mouse pointer hovers over a photo it will go grey. If you click on a photo you will see a larger version of it. Best, -alan